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Waldencast sold Obagi for at most 54% of what its SPAC deal said the brand was worth
Waldencast sold Obagi for up to $460 million, against the $858 million it put on the brand in its 2021 SPAC deal. The $1.2 billion beauty platform a former L'Oreal executive assembled is now a single makeup brand with falling sales.
The Investor · Invest desk
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What happened
- Michel Brousset, Hind Sebti and CFO Manuel Manfredi left Waldencast to run Obagi with Bridgepoint, and executive chairman Felipe Dutra now holds the top executive and financial roles.
- Waldencast took a $52.3 million noncash goodwill impairment on Milk in the half, following a $20 million charge a year earlier.
- The company filed to delist from Nasdaq, with trading expected to end on or about Oct. 2 and an over-the-counter quote planned under the ticker MLKM.
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Why it matters
- exposure Waldencast shareholders now absorb Milk's losses alone, with no second brand left in the company to offset a weak half.
- constraint Central cost savings of $14.8 million to $16.7 million a year match roughly six months of Milk's EBITDA loss, so a return to profit depends on Milk's sales recovering.
- cost Milk write-downs now total $72.3 million over two years, and the $62.8 million of Milk goodwill still on the balance sheet is what the next forecast miss would reduce.
Measured against the 2021 figure, the Obagi ceiling is 54 cents on the dollar, a $398 million gap [1]. The ceiling is generous. Up to $64 million of it is earnout tied to how Obagi performs from here, and part is paid in vendor notes [3]. Without the earnout, the most Waldencast can collect is $396 million, or 46% of the 2021 enterprise value [2]. Add the $82.5 million Rohto Pharmaceutical paid for Obagi's Japan rights in late 2025 [5] and the brand has raised at most $542.5 million, 63% of what the SPAC deal assigned it [3].
Milk's 57% decline is partly a comparison effect. According to Waldencast, roughly $10 million of the year-earlier revenue came from pipeline shipments that did not recur [8]. Without them, sales fell from about $50.9 million to $26.1 million, a drop near 49% [4]. Profit moved faster than sales. The swing from profit to loss was $24.5 million on $34.8 million of lost revenue, so about 70 cents of each lost sales dollar came out of adjusted EBITDA [5]. Waldencast said the first-half results "largely reflect decisions and actions taken in 2025" [10].
The impairment test lets a reader back into Milk's fair value. Waldencast's model weights a discounted cash flow analysis at 80% and comparisons with listed companies at 20% [15]. The company said a 5% cut to projected adjusted EBITDA in every forecast year would lower the value by $74.7 million, or 41.6% [16]. Divide one by the other and the base case is about $180 million, by Fortune's calculation [17]. That estimate moves about 8.3 times as fast as the earnings forecast beneath it, and a 5% miss would leave Milk valued near $105 million [6].
Neither the founders who built the platform nor Milk's deal-era chief executive runs Milk today [6][13]. Tim Coolican, Milk's CEO when the deal was struck and still in the job in early 2025, had joined Blackstone as an operating executive focused on consumer businesses by February [13]. A Waldencast spokesperson told Fortune the company could not comment on former employees' departures [13]. The company is now focused entirely on Milk [6]. In November 2021 it called the three-way combination the "first step" toward a global multibrand beauty and wellness platform [2].
Milk could steady once the 2025 decisions and the one-off pipeline comparison drop out of the figures, and its products are still on Sephora and Ulta shelves [18]. On that path the roughly $180 million model holds. Or the forecast slips by the 5% Waldencast itself tested, and the value falls toward $105 million [6]. I think the second path is likelier. The forecast behind the model has already fallen short enough to force write-downs in consecutive years [14]. Obagi's price, the only figure here set by an outside buyer, came in near half its 2021 mark [1]. The counter-case is Waldencast's own, that the first half reflects choices made in 2025 [10]. Waldencast, a SPAC that went public at the height of the frenzy, is one roll-up [1], and its record does not show whether other SPAC-era combinations lost value the same way. A second half in which Milk's revenue beats the same period of 2025 would prove this view wrong.
What to watch
- Whether Obagi hits the performance targets that decide the earnout portion of its sale price, now under Bridgepoint and Waldencast's former management.
- Whether Waldencast names a chief executive for Milk Makeup itself.
- Whether Waldencast secures the over-the-counter quotation it plans to seek, and how much it discloses once off Nasdaq.